Friday, November 11, 2005

So much seems to have happened; and while it was happening there seemed no time to write about it

There are swathes of thoughts from our stay in France, which have a peculiar autumnal melancholy about them as we sit here watching the rage of young men on the streets of Clichy. Now wonder K says there is no reason to return to either France or the UK. However were the South of Thailand to come closer to the North then there might be no reasons to be here either. Perhaps M. Sarkozy and M.Thaksin would like to exchange views. I am sure they would find they have a lot in common

So we have come back to Sukothai.

To me this seems like something of a relief…though I had no desire to leave Sarn. I will return to this!

Our French adventure was, shall we say, interesting! What did we learn? Kate learned French at top speed, we were all bored to bits..but that, I think, because of where we were. Rural France stuck in the 1950’s with the addition of massive 21st Century farm vehicles was probably never going to be to our taste. I remember the look of horror on Michelle’s face, when we asked if she had thought of living there! Not Lyon! Palleau is very beautiful and the treasured house, full of memories… and histories more so. We felt very privileged to have been a brief part of its history ! We felt our way into it all and sat and gardened and lived…but…even in Poleymieux where Elsi spent her childhood it did not seem we had any reason to be there..nor in Chamonix and Chambery..other places with family connections.




So, we travelled, in France, and to Spain and Portugal..in search of something! We bought tents we never used and the aged Benz purred round Europe. I guess the nicest places we found were Ceret outside Perpignan where we had been with Matty 30 years ago..but now too many Brits…the hidden Costa Brava of Aiguablanca and Vigo..a stunning place. We went from Beaune to Montpellier and Perpignan, Barcelona, Malaga, Sevilla, Faro, Oporto, Vigo, Castillana del Mar, Bayonne, Perpignan…at top speed!....We had tremendous times in Spain and Portugal…memorable meals n beached restaurants, even amazing Chinese food. We had dancing and fireworks, fado and Basque singers. Elodie ran and laughed in the wide sea and coming through Perpignan and Perigueux we thought…these are the two most boring places we have been in for three weeks!!

We might have gone on…to Italy and Greece..to Germany, even, but it occurred to us, one day, that we, too, had a beautiful house by the seaside and we had better go and live in it..so we did…much to Elodie’s delight…so probably not the wrong decision.

We will go back to Germany, Venice, Greece. All we were looking for, really was a school and a place. No big cities, no rural dumps. The languages are a problem for Kate, let alone me and what does it mean to go to school in many of these places?...Not that they are not in all cases better than Walsall. But are they better than Pen Llyn? Answers on a p/c please.

So we came back here to see Granny and to speak some Thai. We went to Chiang Mai and nearly bought a house..but I cannot quite commit myself to a bourgeois Thai housing estate..give me time!

Then I went back to Phuket.

Kalim is a desert..eveything razed in preparation for some mammoth housing project..Patong a building site..they must be trying to create 20 new ‘Spas’ at least. I felt so sorry for the lost tourists wandering in this chaos..and of course it was raining 24/24 as ever! Patong has been transformed from the small village of unpaved roads that I knew into an unpleasant mixture of huge hotels and a scrubby new Thai town the whole length of Soi Nanai

Phuket Town though grows more attractive. It is to Phuket as Corte is to Corsica. Once you get away from the sea there is a real life to be lived. And now it has schools, Makro, Robinson and Central..all new!

M took me to see her daughter’s school. A bilingual school with the curriculum looking sorted out, qualified teachers, small classes….For Thailand it actually looks like a place a child might learn something. Neither government regimentation nor European ostentation. She has endless problems with the school and the authorities because, of course, she is Lao not Thai. And even though her daughter was born in Phuket she has yet, aged 6, to achieve Thai citizenship. This nonsense is repeated all over the north of Thailand where thousands of Hmong, Akha and other hill tribe children are being persistently discriminated against and exploited by the Thais even though they have lived in what is now ‘Thailand’ for generations. Thai racism extends widely-to Issan people, and certainly to southern Muslims, whose land after all did not become part of Siam until the first years of the C20.

Thai culture and Thai nationalism are very strong. There is no denying the vigorous and exciting range and depth of its characteristics. It is locally as English is more broadly..a dominant phenomenon.

I was in Hollywood Awards in BKK the other night with some 3000 Thai youths and girls in their 20’s. A commonality of cultural norms, shared songs and experiences was huge..very powerful…everyone knew the words and tunes to every song, every one knew exactly who every singer and performer was…

Coming back through BKK I stopped to see my friend P. She says she wants to go home to Uttaradit..but needs to stay for business. I should think there is a chance that BKK will be the New Orleans of Asia. Now there is talk of a floating city in Phuket and a new city at the new BKK airport..all appears awful.

Sukothai and the hinterland of Bali let alone Phuket sound better.

So E is going to go to school! What a long way we have come. Look at this!

Here I go with my ABC and my numbers and Thai letters..all of which she knows…very full of myself. She might well come home after the first day and tell us that that is enough..been there done that! She keeps checking she can go to school in her ’seaside’ too when we go (or is it come?) back.

So in case you thought we ate nothing in France…..you could try some of these!!

May 5 Jambon de Bayonne

Le Cassolet des coquilles et moules

Andouillette (Laon)

May 6 Macquereaux a la grillade

La macedoine des courgettes et tomates (Lyon)

May 7 Jambon Persille

Steak Tartare

Salade Nicoise (Beaune)

Kaeng Keow Wan

Soupe Chinoise (Palleau)

Legumes braises au facon Thai

May 8 Les Merguez

Jambon Persille de Verdun

Salade verte (Palleau)

Pasta Sauce au volaille Thai

Fraises

May 9 Saute de Porc au menthe et champignons a la crème

Le Riz

Salade de Chicons

May 10 Sandwich Jambon Persille et Moutarde

Sandwich Camembert et Mango Chutney

Saute de Noix de St. Jacques et Coques

Cervelle de Veau en bouillon

Les Pommes de terre

Salade de Chicons et tomates

May11 Pla Khaem Kao Tom

Pintadeau-Sauce Orange

Riz

Carrottes Sucres

Les Asperges

Petits pots au Chocolat


May 12 Nouilles Thai (Mama!)

Les Chipirons et Les Noix de St. Jacques Sauce au Vin Blanc

Le Riz

May 13 Les Artichauts

Nouilles Thai (Mama!) aux Legumes

Sandwich Pintadeau Mango Chutney

Assiette de Pintadeau Froid, Museau de Porc et Salamis

Salade de Chicons et Cornichons

May 14 Risotto des Crevettes

Poulet Fermier Poele

Les Pommes de Terre a vapeur

Les Epinards

Sauce aux Tomates Provencales

May 15 Salade des Crevettes

Casserole de Porc au Vin Blanc avec Pois Chiches

Tarte aux Fraises

May 16 Le Coq au Vin

Pommes Mousselines

Les Haricots Verts

Les Fruits

Le Fromage-Comte et Brie

May 17 Couscous au Poulet Fermier

Les Courgettes, Les Carottes, Les Navets

May 18 Salade composee de Cervelles de Porc, Chicons et Cornichons

Pizza facon Thomas-Sauce aux Tomates de Vigne, Oignons Rouges, Ail, Herbes de Provence, Fromage Emmenthal, Olives Noirs, Anchois

Tarte aux Framboises

May 19 Salade de Chicons et Anchois

Assiette de Rosette de Lyon et Salamis

Soupe Menerboise

Fromage

Tarte de Pommes

May 20 Salade de Museau de Porc

Blanquette de Lapin

Riz au Saffron

Les Haricots Verts

Les Fruits

May 21 Pasta au Jus de Lapin

Le Veau Roti aux Pommes de terre et Les Herbes

Les Flageolets

Les Carottes Sucree

May 22 Salade de Chicons et du Thon

Risotto de Foie de Volailles

Pommes de Terre Sautees

Le Fenouil au Citron

Sauce aux Tomates

May 23 Jambon de Bayonne

Salade Vert

Pintade au Yaourt et Citron(BBQ)

Sauce Chamignons

Le Riz

May 24 Salade des Haricots, Oeufs, Anchois

Crevettes Thai

Le Riz

May 25 Lotte Sauce Provencale

Les Haricots Verts

Broccoli

May 26 Sautee de Porc Thai

Les Navets

Le Melon

May 27 Salade de Crevettes et Noix de St. Jacques

Salade de Tomates et Mozzarella

Le Thon avec Tapenade de Oregane

Les Asperges Violets Sauce Nantua

Les Fruits (Jean et Michelle)

May 28 On the Road

May 29 On the Road….ie Salami, Bread, Cheese, Prawns

May 30 Cotelette de Veau Grillee

Les Haricots Verts

May 31 Merguez et Poulet Grillee (BBQ)

Pommes Frites

Salade Vert

June 1 Filets de Sandre

Sauce Moules

Les Eclairs

June 2 Pintadeau Grillee(BBQ)

Poivrons Rouge

Le Riz

Tarte Citron

June 3 Salade de thon aux haricots

Les Raviolis aux fromages

Sauce aux champignons

Cerises

June 4 Soupe de Poissons et Sa Rouille

Assiettes de Salamis

Les Crudites

Les Pigeons aux Poivrons Rouges

Les Pommes de Terre Etuvees

Les haricots Verts

June 5 Salades de Tomates et Mozarella

Les Haricots Verts au Vapeur

L’Agneau au Miel et les Epices du Maghreb

Les Fromages (a Paul et Roslyn a Corgengoux)

Les Maqueraux a l’Ail au four

Sauces aux Cornichons

Les Epinards

June 6 Assiettes des Fromages et Saucissons

Le Poulet de Bresse

Sauce a la Crème

Les Pommes de Terre au Vapeur

Le Choux Fleur

Tarte aux abricots

June 7 Les Rougets

Pommes Frites

Sauce Remoulade

Legumes et Porc Thai

Le Riz

June 8 Les Asperges

Les Fromages

Salade

Canard aux Cerises

Mousseline des Pommes de Terre

Tomates Farcies

June 9 Pates Sauce Cannette

Roti de Porc

Les Carottes

Epinards aux Tomates

Mousseline de Pommes de Terres

June 10 Pates au beurre

Les Cailles

Sauce Poivron Rouge

Les Frites de Celeri Rave

June 11 Salade des Crevettes

Salade des Pommes de Terre

La Raie au Beurre Noire

Les Petits Pois

Pommes de Terre au Vapeur

Les Cerises Summit

June 12 Soupe Chinoise

Au Poulet de Bresse

Riz

Melon de Cavaillon

June 13 Pasta Sauce Tomates

Les Asperges Violets

Salade Verte

June 14 Le Jarret de Porc Demi Salee

Son Jus au Vin Blanc

Pommes de Terre

Celeri

June 15 Le Boeuf Bourguignon

Pommes de Terre

Fenouil au Citron

June 16 Darne de Julienne

Sauce Hollandaise

Riz

Les Courgettes aux Tomates

June 17 Pasta

Sauce Boeuf Bourguignon

Les Huitres Fines Claires

Travers de Porc Chinoises

Le Riz

Melon de Cavaillon

June 18 Salade de Concombres et Coppa

Jarret de Jambon Roti

Salade Escarole

Cerises

Entrecote Grille

Andouillette Grille

Les Haricots Verts

Nectarines et Abricots de Provence

June 19

Steaks Haches

Saucissons de Volaille

Pommes Frites

Salsa

Les Petits Pois

Nectarines et Abricots de Provence

Then June 20 we went to Spain and PortugalPerpignan, dire food, St Feliciu..excellent supper of Ham, Moules and fish..unfortunately had to eat it on my own as everyone else exhausted by the site of Aiguablava…Cueller-Chinese Food!, Montril-excellent fish on the beach-Monchique-mad BBQ-Oporto-more excellent fish on the river-Vigo-best fish-Santillana-Omelettes with Chanterelles-Terrines of Fish and Cheese, good Beef, Monkfish with Balsamic Vinegar..hmm……, more fish…went to Carrefour in Bayonne to buy picnic..fish much better than Chalon..in fact everything…however looked forward to supper in Perigueux.but….failed to eat as menus so dire..even the Chinese Restaurant was pulling up the floorboards..Just as well we had a chicken and a couple of bottles tucked up in the icebox!

So we found nowhere anything much to eat

We had endless picnics, ate good fish in Spain and thought the fish in the shops pretty good. Returning home via Perigueux, the cite des truffes, we found only lazy salads composes of the kind you would not even think of in Covent Garden…so we arrived home in need of Vegetables!!

June 30 Les Aubergines aux Tomates

Haricots Verts

Pommes de Terre Etovees

Champignons a la Creme

July 1 Garbure

Choufleur au Piments

Courgettes au Rosmarin

July 2 Salade des Haricots, Oeufs, Pommes de Terre, Anchois

Gigot de Lotte Rotie

Sauce au Capres

Les Courgettes

July 3 Le Canard Grille

Tomates Farcies

Salade de Chicons

July 4 Les Bulots et Les Crevettes Nam Jim

Les Ailes de Poulet facon Thai

Le Riz

Legumes facon Thai

Salade Verte

July 5 Gigot d’Agneau

Sauce aux Abricots et Epices de Maroc

Le Riz

Les Haricots d’Espagne

Fromages

July 6 Les Ravioilis de Tomates et Basilisc

Les Coteletes de Veau

Les Broccolis au Beurre

Tarte de Framboises

July 07 Pak Nam Prik

Soupe des Celeris

Langue de Boeuf

Sauce Madere

Pommes de Terre Vapeur

Poireaux au Vin Rouge

July 8 Crudites

Saucisses d’Auvergne

Tom Yum Gai

Le Riz/

Les Andouillettes de Troyes

Sauce Poivrons Rouges

July 9 Moules au Vin Blanc

Les Pieds et Paquets

Salade Vert

July 10 Osso Bucco alla Milanese

Risotto

Tomates Noirs

July 11 Boeuf Stroganoff

Pommes Sautees

Les Courgettes

July 12 Truites au bleu

Pommes Vapeurs

Les Haricots Beurre(Jaune)

July 13 Cervelles DePorc

Le Veau a la Creme

Pommes de Terre

Haricots Verts du Jardin

July 14 Le BBQ du 14 Juillet Palleau…Oh Dear

July15 Cotelettes de Veau

Sauce Chamipgnons a la Creme

July 16 Grillade de Pintadeau Citon Verts

Sauce Poivrons Rouges Tomates Noirs

July 17 Salade des Maqueraux

Lapin au Safran

Le Riz

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